Question 1

Overview

Accepted Answer

Each section below contains basic info about the crag, as well as some thoughts & recommendations. The list is comprised of crags we have first-hand experience with - if a crag isn't below, we just haven't been yet. Crags are ordered roughly North->South similarly to the guidebook (with Telendos at the bottom).
 
Use the search bar above to find crags by certain criteria, here are some tips:
To see only crags that you don't need a rental vehicle to reach, search for "walk"
To find crags with a good selection at a specific grade, type the grade (e.g. "5.10")
To find areas with afternoon shade, try "afternoon" or "all-day"

Question 2

Secret Garden

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Medium/High
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11c-5.12
Approach Type: Drive (25 min)
Hike: 10 min
Shade: All-day
Thoughts
:
This crag is all about the ~15 steep tufa routes in the middle of the wall. I think this section most closely resembles the Ghost Kitchen main wall, but it gets shade for most of the day. The drawbacks are a relatively long and sunny approach, lack of good easier routes, and relative crowdedness for the approach length. The tiny town of Palionnisos is a nice spot to swing by afterwards for swimming and food - we thought Taverna Kalidonis was quite good.

Question 3

Ghost Kitchen

Accepted Answer

Popularity: High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11a-5.12c
Approach Type: Drive
Hike: 20 min (steep)
Shade: Morning
 
Thoughts:
The main wall of Ghost Kitchen is very distinct with steep climbs and tons of wild vertical tufas. Nearly all of them are excellent most are exhausting, especially if you aren't used to this style. To the left there are some good vertical climbs that are in the 5.10 range, though that area appears to gather some crowds. Down to the right is a section of long slab routes (80m rope required) which seem like good options for afternoon when the sun starts to hit the main wall.

Question 4

Arhi

Accepted Answer

Popularity: High
Recommendation: Low
Ideal Grade Range: 5.13+
Approach Type: Drive
Hike: 8 min
Shade: Early Morning
Thoughts
:
Perhaps it was just the particular day we were there, but this crag was crowded to the point where we felt cramped and that our options were limited. It's likely the crowds are not as much of a problem on the non-main wall. Arhi also gets sunny sooner than other walls so you'll need to get out there early in the warmer months.

Question 5

Arginonta

Accepted Answer

Popularity: High
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10b-c, 5.11c-5.12b
Approach Type: Walk + Bus, Drive
Hike: 5-10 min
Shade:
 Morning until around 11am
 
Thoughts:
Infrared wall has many great mid-5.10's in a row and has a short approach. This makes it quite a popular area though - it was a beach bash when we were there. There are a couple solid low-5.12 routes to make if you are looking for that range.
This wall gets hot by noon in the warmer months, but I'm sure it would be great for cool afternoons.

Question 6

Arginonta Valley

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Medium/High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.9-5.10 (middle, right) 5.11 (left)
Approach Type: Drive (15 min)
Hike: 10 min
Shade: Afternoon
 
Thoughts:
A great spot for a large selection of high-quality routes in the low 5.10's. While this seems like a popular spot for mid-sized groups, there are a ton routes of similar difficulty packed into the middle and right walls. Additionally, for some harder steep routes you can hike another two minutes to the left cave. The combination of quality routes, easy approach, and all-afternoon shade make this highly recommended.

Question 7

Afternoon

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Medium
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.8, 5.10
Approach Type:Walk (10 min) Drive (2 min)
Hike: 15 min
Shade: Morning (all) through mid-Afternoon (right)
 
Thoughts:
As the name implies, this is a perfect wall to get out of the sun - most other areas along this stretch of cliff get direct sunlight after around 1pm, but parts of this wall stay shady much later. Some tricky slabs on the left half, and a few solid 5.10 vertical routes on the right half.

Pictured: Looking up at the upper-half of Afternoon at sunset

Question 8

Grande Grotta

Accepted Answer

Popularity: High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.12-5.13
Approach Type:Walk (10 min), Drive (2 min)
Hike: 15 min
Shade: Morning, partially afternoon
 
Thoughts:
Well worth stopping by regardless of whether you feel up for the routes. The scale of the cave is amazing and watching climbers struggle up it is quite enjoyable. There are a few good 5.11s and a short 5.9 though these are, predictably, the most popular.

Pictured: Zoomed in on the Grande Grotta from Masouri

Question 9

Panorama

Accepted Answer

Popularity: High
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10c-5.12
Approach Type:Walk (10 min), Drive (2 min)
Hike: 17 min
Shade: Morning until 1pm
 
Thoughts:
This wall is full of the iconic tufa rails of Kalymnos - though compared to some other walls crags they are a bit polished from use. Most lines are exhausting, especially if you are not used to the type of climbing. Avoid the area once it gets sunny and hot as the tufas become very slick.

Question 10

Kalydna

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Low
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11
Approach:Walk (10 min) Drive (2 min)
Hike: 20 min
Shade: Morning until around 1pm
 
Thoughts:
This sector is in an awesome, sort of secluded area. It is a bit of a longer hike in, and you go right by either Grande Grotta or Poets which is likely why the area is not very popular. There are also not many moderates, also keeping the crowds down.

Question 11

Poets

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Medium/High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10a-d
Approach Type: Walk (6 min), Drive (2 min)
Hike: 15 min
Shade: Morning to about 1pm
 
Thoughts:
As this is one of the closest areas to walk to from Masouri, it makes a good intro area to get a sampling of Kalymnos climbing. There is a huge concentration of 5.10's all next to each other, with a few 5.11's and 5.9's sprinkled in. This is definitely a recommended sector.

Question 12

Gerakios - Trois Ilots

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Low
Recommendation: Low/Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.9-5.10
Approach Method: Walk (15 min), Drive (4 min)
Hike:15 min
Shade: Morning
 
Thoughts:
Didn't see much of this area, but it has some pleasant moderate slabs. There are a few 5-6 pitch routes that reach the top of the formation which could make for a fun day. It is a bit of a longer uphill walk than some of the other areas if you are coming from the main road in Masouri.

Question 13

Symplegades

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Low/Medium
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10b-5.11a
Approach Type: Drive (5 min)
Hike: 10 min
 
Thoughts: This area feels quite unique for Kalymnos. The main wall has great vertical face climbs that look sort of blank but have amazing little pockets, pinches, and edges if you can find them. There aren't an enormous amount of routes, but it makes for a great full day with the way the shade moves from one face to the other. It is a bit of a wind tunnel so perhaps save it for a calm day.

Question 14

Pescatore

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Low/Medium
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.9, 5.11
Approach Type:Walk (10 min) or Drive (2 min) + Boat (20 min)
Hike: 10 min
Shade: Morning to mid-Afternoon
 
Thoughts:
On the left half there are long, moderate slab-to-vertical climbs with tons of little pockets and edges - easy to suffer from analysis paralysis trying to find the best holds/feet (just keep moving, the first one you grab is probably good enough). The right side is much different with some smoother, steeper, tufa-y walls. This sector can be fun for a variety of grade ranges.

Pictured: Victoria on one of the long Pescatore slab climbs

Question 15

Irox

Accepted Answer

Popularity: Low
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 
Approach Type:Walk (10 min) or Drive (2 min) + Boat (20 min)
Hike: 2 min
Shade: Afternoon
 
Thoughts:
I'd highly recommend taking a boat out to Irox and the surrounding sectors - it is an amazing place to climb. At this sector, "Magma" is a classic that goes straight up and enormous vertical tufa.

THE SELF-COACHED GUMBY

KALYMNOS

Logistics

Overview

Getting There

Where to Stay

Life on Kalymnos

Climbing

Overview

Guidebook and Mountain Project

Area Access

Demographics

Gear Considerations

Crag Guide

Overview

Secret Garden

Ghost Kitchen

Arhi

Arginonta

Arginonta Valley

Afternoon

Grande Grotta

Panorama

Kalydna

Poets

Gerakios - Trois Ilots

Symplegades

Pescatore

Irox