THE SELF-COACHED GUMBY
KALYMNOS
Kalymnos (pronounced “KAH-lim-nos”) is a Greek island paradise for climbers. Developed over the past 20 years, it has 3000+ sport routes & over 50 sectors to choose from. Spend a week on this island and you'll spend the next year thinking about going back.
Guide Completeness Rating: 7/10
Kalymnos being a small, isolated Greek island there are a number of logistical hurdles to getting there and spending time on the island. Read through the below sections for some tips based on our experience there.
What the Crux?
Avoid these logistical snafus at all costs!
You must have an International Driver’s Permit in order to rent anything with an engine. See more in Life on Kalymnos > Getting Around.
To get to sectors surrounding Irox on Telendos, make sure the boatman will specifically take you to Irox rather than just "Telendos". See more in Climbing > Area Access
Kalymnos is a bit challenging to get to (from the US at least) regardless of the route you choose. The first time we went, we flew Dulles -> Istanbul -> Athens -> Kos, and then took a ferry to Kalymnos - all told it was around 30 hours door to door. The second attempt was much improved by finding a direct flight to Athens, and then the Athens -> Kos flight was only a few hours after landing in Athens - this time it took closer to 18 hours.
Try to find a direct flight to somewhere that flies to Kos (e.g. Athens, Rome) - in other words, try to keep your total number of flights under 3. From Kos, a 30-minute ferry will take you to Kalymnos. Make sure to go to the Mastichari port (rather than the Kos city port) – it is closer to the airport and has cheaper and more frequent ferries. It is hard to find an updated timetable for the ferry Matichari-Kalymnos, but in September 2018 there was a late ferry every night at 11:30pm for the last few flights arriving in Kos for the evening.
Another option which may be slightly cheaper is to take a 10-hour ferry from Athens directly to Kalymnos. This would only be faster if the timing for flights to Kos doesn't work well for your flight into Athens.
In summary - spend some time figuring out how you can make your overall travel time as short as possible and you'll thank yourself later.
The majority of climbers stay in the little town of Masouri. This town is within walking distance to many popular crags and has everything you need to survive for weeks on the island. Also, the jetty to get to Telendos and plenty of beaches are easily within walking distance, so you can't go wrong.
There are a couple of hotels (mostly non-climber beach-going tourists), at least 1 hostel (100% climbers, not sure of the name), as well as some Airbnb’s. We've stayed in Airbnb's on different sides of the town and both were fine. The town is so small that exact location within the town doesn't matter much, but if you plan to walk to the closest crags, staying towards the north end of the town will cut off 5-10 minutes of the approach. I'd recommend staying at a room above the Prego - the location is good and the rooms come with free hot breakfast which was a huge perk
Also note - the road that runs parallel to the large road but slightly east (see the "Gerakios Approach" marker) is elevated significantly above the road that runs closest to the beach and there is no direct way to walk down into town. I'd highly recommend staying on the road along the beach for better access to beach, groceries, and restaurants.
​Getting Around
The preferred means of transportation around island is scooter or ATV, and there are many scooter rental spots in Masouri with similar prices around 10-15€ per day. A regular U.S. license will not legally allow you to rent a scooter or car - you'll need an International Drivers Permit (IDP). You can get an IDP from AAA for $20. On our first visit, we were unable to rent anything with a motor because we just had standard US licenses. We had not read about others having this problem, it seems that more recently there is stricter enforcement of this rule.
The second time around, I came prepared with an IDP and was able to rent an ATV. In order to rent a scooter, you'll need a motorcyle provision on your IDP, but an ATV just requires a normal U.S. license plus IDP. Since there are far fewer ATV's to go around than scooters, it is best to book these in advance.
An option if you are vehicle-less is the bus that leaves once from Masouri in the morning, and returns once in the afternoon. We did this one day to get to Arginonta – the timing worked perfectly for a full day of climbing. Check the bus stop (coordinates
36.999538, 26.937800) for the schedule as it changes seasonally.
To get to Telendos, you can take a ferry from the Mirties jetty (36.990982, 26.931270). More on this in Climbing > Area Access.
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Food and Drink
The tap water, while safe, tastes terrible so you’ll want to buy bottled water and refill them at stations located along the road. There are plenty of reasonably priced restaurants along the main road. Some recommendations below:
Sunrise Cafe - A go-to spot in Massouri for quick and tasty 3€ gyros.
Prego - If you need a change from Greek cuisine, you can get solid pizza & pastas here.
Traditional Taverna in Arginonta - Serves delicious traditional Greek food cooked on spits over coal right next to your table. It doesn't look like much but the food is excellent.
To Kapsouli on Telendos - Good seafood and sunset views of Kalymnos.
Micky's Bar - Owned and run by a friendly Australian man, this is a good spot for intriguing cocktails.
Gear
A bunch of stores carry climbing gear for reasonable prices, so don’t worry if you forget something or just want to buy chalk there.
Rock Type(s): Limestone
Route Grading: Slightly soft - keep in mind that in the sun the rock gets slick and hot, increasing the difficultly significantly
Recommended Sub-Sector: The Grande Grotta and areas to the left and right offer something for everyone. The giant cave itself is an iconic feature of the island, and even if you can't shred its insane routes it is worth stopping by to spectate. Afternoon crag, just to the left, has grade mostly from 5.8-5-10 and afternoon shade, while Panorama to the right has many classic routes following the distinctive tufa features of Kalymnos.
Pictured: The Grande Grotta is in the center, with Afternoon just to the left (note the shade) and Panorama to the right.
The Kalymnos Guidebook is essential. The pictures, approach info, route descriptions, and everything else are well done. It comes with a code you can enter in a mobile app (Vertical Life) that allows you to download the digital copy. There is even a grade conversion chart at the beginning for those a little confused by the French rating system. There is a new edition every year, so you can be sure the latest edition will be up-to-date. Don't worry about buying one in advance of getting there, most of the shops sell copies (though if you want you can order it here)
As additional incentive to buy the book, most of the bolting/re-bolting efforts on the island are funded by guidebook sales.
Mountain Project has many routes and areas, but is not complete or as up-to-date as the guidebook. I wouldn't recommend relying on it.
Most of the Kalymnos climbing areas are accessed by simply walking up steep hills to the cliffs. You'll often have to pass through fenced-in goat enclosures (or whatever they are exactly...), just be sure to close gates behind you.
Telendos
Telendos can be accessed via ferry from the Mirties jetty (36.990982, 26.931270).
There are two possible destinations of the ferry - Telendos town, and the Irox jetty. Make sure if you want to go to Irox or the surrounding sectors, you make that clear to the boatman. We saw some make the mistake of going to Telendos town and they had to make the hour-long sunny trek across the island. Also, from our experience the boatman was right on time to give us a ride back.
As of summer 2017, the price to get to Irox started at 30€ but with a group of over 6 people it was just 5€ per person.
Interestingly, climbers on Kalymnos seemed to skew towards a slightly older crowd. Unsurprisingly, there are climbers from all over the world, but mostly from Europe. Regardless of age and nationality, it seemed that the majority of climbers were looking for moderates. If you can climb in the 7 range (5.11c/d) or higher you’ll have an easy time getting on routes for the most part.
The single-pitch routes on the island tend to be longer on average than most areas in the States. A 70m rope will get you up and down most routes, though there are certain areas with epic routes over 40m long that require an 80m rope. With a 60m rope you'd definitely find yourself limited in the crags and routes available.
Routes are generously bolted - I think the most draws we needed on one route was 18 for a 30-35m route.
Each section below contains basic info about the crag, as well as some thoughts & recommendations. The list is comprised of crags we have first-hand experience with - if a crag isn't below, we just haven't been yet. Crags are ordered roughly North->South similarly to the guidebook (with Telendos at the bottom).
Use the search bar above to find crags by certain criteria, here are some tips:
To see only crags that you don't need a rental vehicle to reach, search for "walk"
To find crags with a good selection at a specific grade, type the grade (e.g. "5.10")
To find areas with afternoon shade, try "afternoon" or "all-day"
Popularity: Medium/High
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11c-5.12
Approach Type: Drive (25 min)
Hike: 10 min
Shade: All-day
Thoughts
:
This crag is all about the ~15 steep tufa routes in the middle of the wall. I think this section most closely resembles the Ghost Kitchen main wall, but it gets shade for most of the day. The drawbacks are a relatively long and sunny approach, lack of good easier routes, and relative crowdedness for the approach length. The tiny town of Palionnisos is a nice spot to swing by afterwards for swimming and food - we thought Taverna Kalidonis was quite good.
Popularity: High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11a-5.12c
Approach Type: Drive
Hike: 20 min (steep)
Shade: Morning
Thoughts:
The main wall of Ghost Kitchen is very distinct with steep climbs and tons of wild vertical tufas. Nearly all of them are excellent most are exhausting, especially if you aren't used to this style. To the left there are some good vertical climbs that are in the 5.10 range, though that area appears to gather some crowds. Down to the right is a section of long slab routes (80m rope required) which seem like good options for afternoon when the sun starts to hit the main wall.
Popularity: High
Recommendation: Low
Ideal Grade Range: 5.13+
Approach Type: Drive
Hike: 8 min
Shade: Early Morning
Thoughts
:
Perhaps it was just the particular day we were there, but this crag was crowded to the point where we felt cramped and that our options were limited. It's likely the crowds are not as much of a problem on the non-main wall. Arhi also gets sunny sooner than other walls so you'll need to get out there early in the warmer months.
Popularity: High
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10b-c, 5.11c-5.12b
Approach Type: Walk + Bus, Drive
Hike: 5-10 min
Shade:
Morning until around 11am
Thoughts:
Infrared wall has many great mid-5.10's in a row and has a short approach. This makes it quite a popular area though - it was a beach bash when we were there. There are a couple solid low-5.12 routes to make if you are looking for that range.
This wall gets hot by noon in the warmer months, but I'm sure it would be great for cool afternoons.
Popularity: Medium/High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.9-5.10 (middle, right) 5.11 (left)
Approach Type: Drive (15 min)
Hike: 10 min
Shade: Afternoon
Thoughts:
A great spot for a large selection of high-quality routes in the low 5.10's. While this seems like a popular spot for mid-sized groups, there are a ton routes of similar difficulty packed into the middle and right walls. Additionally, for some harder steep routes you can hike another two minutes to the left cave. The combination of quality routes, easy approach, and all-afternoon shade make this highly recommended.
Popularity: Medium
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.8, 5.10
Approach Type:Walk (10 min) Drive (2 min)
Hike: 15 min
Shade: Morning (all) through mid-Afternoon (right)
Thoughts:
As the name implies, this is a perfect wall to get out of the sun - most other areas along this stretch of cliff get direct sunlight after around 1pm, but parts of this wall stay shady much later. Some tricky slabs on the left half, and a few solid 5.10 vertical routes on the right half.
Pictured: Looking up at the upper-half of Afternoon at sunset
Popularity: High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.12-5.13
Approach Type:Walk (10 min), Drive (2 min)
Hike: 15 min
Shade: Morning, partially afternoon
Thoughts:
Well worth stopping by regardless of whether you feel up for the routes. The scale of the cave is amazing and watching climbers struggle up it is quite enjoyable. There are a few good 5.11s and a short 5.9 though these are, predictably, the most popular.
Pictured: Zoomed in on the Grande Grotta from Masouri
Popularity: High
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10c-5.12
Approach Type:Walk (10 min), Drive (2 min)
Hike: 17 min
Shade: Morning until 1pm
Thoughts:
This wall is full of the iconic tufa rails of Kalymnos - though compared to some other walls crags they are a bit polished from use. Most lines are exhausting, especially if you are not used to the type of climbing. Avoid the area once it gets sunny and hot as the tufas become very slick.
Popularity: Low
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11
Approach:Walk (10 min) Drive (2 min)
Hike: 20 min
Shade: Morning until around 1pm
Thoughts:
This sector is in an awesome, sort of secluded area. It is a bit of a longer hike in, and you go right by either Grande Grotta or Poets which is likely why the area is not very popular. There are also not many moderates, also keeping the crowds down.
Popularity: Medium/High
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10a-d
Approach Type: Walk (6 min), Drive (2 min)
Hike: 15 min
Shade: Morning to about 1pm
Thoughts:
As this is one of the closest areas to walk to from Masouri, it makes a good intro area to get a sampling of Kalymnos climbing. There is a huge concentration of 5.10's all next to each other, with a few 5.11's and 5.9's sprinkled in. This is definitely a recommended sector.
Popularity: Low
Recommendation: Low/Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.9-5.10
Approach Method: Walk (15 min), Drive (4 min)
Hike:15 min
Shade: Morning
Thoughts:
Didn't see much of this area, but it has some pleasant moderate slabs. There are a few 5-6 pitch routes that reach the top of the formation which could make for a fun day. It is a bit of a longer uphill walk than some of the other areas if you are coming from the main road in Masouri.
Popularity: Low/Medium
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10b-5.11a
Approach Type: Drive (5 min)
Hike: 10 min
Thoughts: This area feels quite unique for Kalymnos. The main wall has great vertical face climbs that look sort of blank but have amazing little pockets, pinches, and edges if you can find them. There aren't an enormous amount of routes, but it makes for a great full day with the way the shade moves from one face to the other. It is a bit of a wind tunnel so perhaps save it for a calm day.
Popularity: Low/Medium
Recommendation: Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.9, 5.11
Approach Type:Walk (10 min) or Drive (2 min) + Boat (20 min)
Hike: 10 min
Shade: Morning to mid-Afternoon
Thoughts:
On the left half there are long, moderate slab-to-vertical climbs with tons of little pockets and edges - easy to suffer from analysis paralysis trying to find the best holds/feet (just keep moving, the first one you grab is probably good enough). The right side is much different with some smoother, steeper, tufa-y walls. This sector can be fun for a variety of grade ranges.
Pictured: Victoria on one of the long Pescatore slab climbs
Popularity: Low
Recommendation: High
Ideal Grade Range:
Approach Type:Walk (10 min) or Drive (2 min) + Boat (20 min)
Hike: 2 min
Shade: Afternoon
Thoughts:
I'd highly recommend taking a boat out to Irox and the surrounding sectors - it is an amazing place to climb. At this sector, "Magma" is a classic that goes straight up and enormous vertical tufa.