LION'S HEAD

Each section below contains basic info about the crag, as well as some thoughts & recommendations. Try using the search bar above to find desired grade (e.g. "5.10"), a parking area (e.g. "Second Pullout"), or a time when it is shady (e.g. "Afternoon"). Recommended Crags for Each Grade: 5.6-5.7 - Panty Wall 5.8-5.9 - Magic Bus, Hunter S. Thompson Dome 5.10a-5.10b - Black Corridor, Civilization Crag, Dante's Wall 5.10c-5.10d - Stone Wall, Black Corridor 5.11a-5.11b - Sweet Pain Wall, Black Corridor 5.11c-5.11d - The Gallery, Sunny and Steep 5.12a-5.12b - Sunny and Steep, Wall of Confusion

Popularity - Very High Ideal Grade Range - 5.9-5.10 Approach - 10 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Always Thoughts: Good for -groups looking to jump on a high volume of moderates -getting a feel for Red Rocks-style climbing Bad for -those that are bothered by crowds -those looking for variety in climbs & interesting features Pictured: Victoria and Mexin with a moderate crowd building up in the Corridor

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.12c Approach - 5 minutes Parking Area - Red Springs Shade - Some in Morning, All in Afternoon Thoughts: I haven't personally climbed here, but you can get some amazing photos on Caustic (5.11b). This one is on my list to check out next time.

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - 5.8-5.10b Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - First Pullout Shade - Until late afternoon (mostly) Thoughts: One of the better crags for those looking for 5.8 to low 5.10, though you will always have some company here. "Conquistador" is a fun 5.10d, (though stick clip is highly recommended for that one). Picture: A friend climbing 'Conquistador'

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - various Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Never Thoughts: There is such a wide range of grades that there is at least 1 climb for everyone - on the flip side, there is no real ideal grade range for this area. Plenty of great short routes though, including the mega-classic The Gift. You can see this wall from the second pullout so you can avoid it if it looks packed. Pictured: Me on Yaak Crak

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.8 Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Morning Thoughts: There are only 5 sport routes on this wall, but most are solid. The 5.8's on the left are some of the best of the grade at Red Rocks I think, and the 5.10c and 5.11a on the right are kind of one-move-wonders, but enjoyable. This is a good alternative if Black Corridor and Sweet Pain are crowded as it is just a few minutes past these.

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - 5.8-5.9 Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Early Morning Thoughts: A good area for a high concentration of easy routes. If someone leads one route, it is easy to traverse to adjacent anchors and set up a top rope. Another one that you can clearly see from the parking lot to gauge crowds.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.7-5.8 Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Morning, partial late afternoon Thoughts: I was only at this wall briefly, but I wouldn't really recommend this wall unless you are looking for 5.7's and everywhere else is crowded. The routes are slabby and at least some of them (the 5.9 and 5.10 on the right) are rather runout, so are not great for new outdoor climbers. If you are ok with routes 5.8 and higher, there are better options like Black Corridor, Panty Wall, Civilization, The Gallery.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.7-5.9 Approach - 15 minutes First Pullout Shade - Possibly early morning, sunny most of the day Thoughts: A bunch of 5.8s in a row next to each other make this a good spot for newer climbers to get a feel for the character of the rock in the area.

Popularity - Low Ideal Grade Range - 5.10c-5.11b Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Afternoon Thoughts: Lack of people and some really solid 5.10c routes make this a great wall for an afternoon, especially if Black Corridor gets over crowded.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.11d Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Afternoon Thoughts: Relatively low-graded, high-rated steep routes at a wall that seems to always have some climbers, but doesn't get crowded. Definitely worth spending an afternoon for those looking for a bunch in the 5.11 range.

Popularity - Low Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.12 Approach - 30 minutes Parking Area - Kraft Mountain Shade - Never Thoughts: Some very highly rated mid-11's to low 12's (Mr. Choad's Wild Ride makes Climbing's list of top U.S. climbs), not much in the way of moderate warm-ups. It gets very hot in the sun, so not recommended on warm days (though I'm sure it would be empty).

Popularity - Medium/High Ideal Grade Range - 5.11c-5.12b Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Never, aside from a few in the cave Thoughts: I thought 11's in the cave were a lot of fun, and a few very steep 12a/b's looked very classic for those looking for that range.

Each section below contains basic info about the crag, as well as some thoughts & recommendations. Try using the search bar above to find desired grade (e.g. "5.10"), a parking area (e.g. "Second Pullout"), or a time when it is shady (e.g. "Afternoon"). Recommended Crags for Each Grade: 5.6-5.7 - Panty Wall 5.8-5.9 - Magic Bus, Hunter S. Thompson Dome 5.10a-5.10b - Black Corridor, Civilization Crag, Dante's Wall 5.10c-5.10d - Stone Wall, Black Corridor 5.11a-5.11b - Sweet Pain Wall, Black Corridor 5.11c-5.11d - The Gallery, Sunny and Steep 5.12a-5.12b - Sunny and Steep, Wall of Confusion

Popularity - Very High Ideal Grade Range - 5.9-5.10 Approach - 10 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Always Thoughts: Good for -groups looking to jump on a high volume of moderates -getting a feel for Red Rocks-style climbing Bad for -those that are bothered by crowds -those looking for variety in climbs & interesting features Pictured: Victoria and Mexin with a moderate crowd building up in the Corridor

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.12c Approach - 5 minutes Parking Area - Red Springs Shade - Some in Morning, All in Afternoon Thoughts: I haven't personally climbed here, but you can get some amazing photos on Caustic (5.11b). This one is on my list to check out next time.

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - 5.8-5.10b Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - First Pullout Shade - Until late afternoon (mostly) Thoughts: One of the better crags for those looking for 5.8 to low 5.10, though you will always have some company here. "Conquistador" is a fun 5.10d, (though stick clip is highly recommended for that one). Picture: A friend climbing 'Conquistador'

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - various Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Never Thoughts: There is such a wide range of grades that there is at least 1 climb for everyone - on the flip side, there is no real ideal grade range for this area. Plenty of great short routes though, including the mega-classic The Gift. You can see this wall from the second pullout so you can avoid it if it looks packed. Pictured: Me on Yaak Crak

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.8 Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Morning Thoughts: There are only 5 sport routes on this wall, but most are solid. The 5.8's on the left are some of the best of the grade at Red Rocks I think, and the 5.10c and 5.11a on the right are kind of one-move-wonders, but enjoyable. This is a good alternative if Black Corridor and Sweet Pain are crowded as it is just a few minutes past these.

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - 5.8-5.9 Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Early Morning Thoughts: A good area for a high concentration of easy routes. If someone leads one route, it is easy to traverse to adjacent anchors and set up a top rope. Another one that you can clearly see from the parking lot to gauge crowds.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.7-5.8 Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Morning, partial late afternoon Thoughts: I was only at this wall briefly, but I wouldn't really recommend this wall unless you are looking for 5.7's and everywhere else is crowded. The routes are slabby and at least some of them (the 5.9 and 5.10 on the right) are rather runout, so are not great for new outdoor climbers. If you are ok with routes 5.8 and higher, there are better options like Black Corridor, Panty Wall, Civilization, The Gallery.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.7-5.9 Approach - 15 minutes First Pullout Shade - Possibly early morning, sunny most of the day Thoughts: A bunch of 5.8s in a row next to each other make this a good spot for newer climbers to get a feel for the character of the rock in the area.

Popularity - Low Ideal Grade Range - 5.10c-5.11b Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Afternoon Thoughts: Lack of people and some really solid 5.10c routes make this a great wall for an afternoon, especially if Black Corridor gets over crowded.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.11d Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Afternoon Thoughts: Relatively low-graded, high-rated steep routes at a wall that seems to always have some climbers, but doesn't get crowded. Definitely worth spending an afternoon for those looking for a bunch in the 5.11 range.

Popularity - Low Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.12 Approach - 30 minutes Parking Area - Kraft Mountain Shade - Never Thoughts: Some very highly rated mid-11's to low 12's (Mr. Choad's Wild Ride makes Climbing's list of top U.S. climbs), not much in the way of moderate warm-ups. It gets very hot in the sun, so not recommended on warm days (though I'm sure it would be empty).

Popularity - Medium/High Ideal Grade Range - 5.11c-5.12b Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Never, aside from a few in the cave Thoughts: I thought 11's in the cave were a lot of fun, and a few very steep 12a/b's looked very classic for those looking for that range.

Each section below contains basic info about the crag, as well as some thoughts & recommendations. Try using the search bar above to find desired grade (e.g. "5.10"), a parking area (e.g. "Second Pullout"), or a time when it is shady (e.g. "Afternoon"). Recommended Crags for Each Grade: 5.6-5.7 - Panty Wall 5.8-5.9 - Magic Bus, Hunter S. Thompson Dome 5.10a-5.10b - Black Corridor, Civilization Crag, Dante's Wall 5.10c-5.10d - Stone Wall, Black Corridor 5.11a-5.11b - Sweet Pain Wall, Black Corridor 5.11c-5.11d - The Gallery, Sunny and Steep 5.12a-5.12b - Sunny and Steep, Wall of Confusion

Popularity - Very High Ideal Grade Range - 5.9-5.10 Approach - 10 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Always Thoughts: Good for -groups looking to jump on a high volume of moderates -getting a feel for Red Rocks-style climbing Bad for -those that are bothered by crowds -those looking for variety in climbs & interesting features Pictured: Victoria and Mexin with a moderate crowd building up in the Corridor

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.12c Approach - 5 minutes Parking Area - Red Springs Shade - Some in Morning, All in Afternoon Thoughts: I haven't personally climbed here, but you can get some amazing photos on Caustic (5.11b). This one is on my list to check out next time.

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - 5.8-5.10b Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - First Pullout Shade - Until late afternoon (mostly) Thoughts: One of the better crags for those looking for 5.8 to low 5.10, though you will always have some company here. "Conquistador" is a fun 5.10d, (though stick clip is highly recommended for that one). Picture: A friend climbing 'Conquistador'

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - various Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Never Thoughts: There is such a wide range of grades that there is at least 1 climb for everyone - on the flip side, there is no real ideal grade range for this area. Plenty of great short routes though, including the mega-classic The Gift. You can see this wall from the second pullout so you can avoid it if it looks packed. Pictured: Me on Yaak Crak

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.8 Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Morning Thoughts: There are only 5 sport routes on this wall, but most are solid. The 5.8's on the left are some of the best of the grade at Red Rocks I think, and the 5.10c and 5.11a on the right are kind of one-move-wonders, but enjoyable. This is a good alternative if Black Corridor and Sweet Pain are crowded as it is just a few minutes past these.

Popularity - High Ideal Grade Range - 5.8-5.9 Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Early Morning Thoughts: A good area for a high concentration of easy routes. If someone leads one route, it is easy to traverse to adjacent anchors and set up a top rope. Another one that you can clearly see from the parking lot to gauge crowds.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.7-5.8 Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Morning, partial late afternoon Thoughts: I was only at this wall briefly, but I wouldn't really recommend this wall unless you are looking for 5.7's and everywhere else is crowded. The routes are slabby and at least some of them (the 5.9 and 5.10 on the right) are rather runout, so are not great for new outdoor climbers. If you are ok with routes 5.8 and higher, there are better options like Black Corridor, Panty Wall, Civilization, The Gallery.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.7-5.9 Approach - 15 minutes First Pullout Shade - Possibly early morning, sunny most of the day Thoughts: A bunch of 5.8s in a row next to each other make this a good spot for newer climbers to get a feel for the character of the rock in the area.

Popularity - Low Ideal Grade Range - 5.10c-5.11b Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Afternoon Thoughts: Lack of people and some really solid 5.10c routes make this a great wall for an afternoon, especially if Black Corridor gets over crowded.

Popularity - Medium Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.11d Approach - 15 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Afternoon Thoughts: Relatively low-graded, high-rated steep routes at a wall that seems to always have some climbers, but doesn't get crowded. Definitely worth spending an afternoon for those looking for a bunch in the 5.11 range.

Popularity - Low Ideal Grade Range - 5.11b-5.12 Approach - 30 minutes Parking Area - Kraft Mountain Shade - Never Thoughts: Some very highly rated mid-11's to low 12's (Mr. Choad's Wild Ride makes Climbing's list of top U.S. climbs), not much in the way of moderate warm-ups. It gets very hot in the sun, so not recommended on warm days (though I'm sure it would be empty).

Popularity - Medium/High Ideal Grade Range - 5.11c-5.12b Approach - 20 minutes Parking Area - Second Pullout Shade - Never, aside from a few in the cave Thoughts: I thought 11's in the cave were a lot of fun, and a few very steep 12a/b's looked very classic for those looking for that range.