THE SELF-COACHED GUMBY
LION'S HEAD
While Canada climbing is best known for stellar alpine and trad climbing in British Columbia and Alberta, the Central province of Ontario offers an under-the-radar scenic getaway just in reach for mid-western climbers desperate for summer sport climbing. Lion’s Head and the Bruce Peninsula holds unique, high exposure sea cliff climbing on beautiful limestone overlooking the aquamarine waters of the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron.
Guide Completeness Rating: 7/10
Contributed by Shelby and Eric
Climbing at Lion’s Head is trickier than normal sport cragging. Routes are accessed by rappelling in and many require hanging belays. There is also a Class 4 descent called the Stinger Gully with fixed ropes that you can use to access the climbs at the base of the cliff.
Bolting here is more spaced out than at an average sport crag, especially on the climbs with hanging belays. Be prepared for runouts in sections where the route eases off for its grade. Despite the hanging belays and runouts, you will be rewarded for your efforts with adventuresome climbing with stunning views!
The trail along the top of the climbing area is well travelled and conveniently marked with many white blazes. The Bruce Trail is a well-established trail (the oldest marked trail in Canada!) that follows the Niagara Escarpment all the way from Niagara Falls to the tip of the Bruce Peninsula.
What the Crux?
Avoid these logistical snafus at all costs
Bring two ropes: one for rappelling and another for climbing.
Know multi-pitch and hanging belay skills prior to climbing here.
Remember your passport! And don't forget to check if you have an international data plan.
It can be cold and windy in Canada - even in June! Bring more layers than you think you need. This means it can be chilly in spring but makes it a great location to escape the heat in summer months.
Stores close early in the area. Don't run out of food or gas! (we did)
Driving is the only way to get to Lion's Head and it is a few hours for major airports.
3-hour drive from Toronto
4.5-hour drive from Detroit
Fitz Hostel: affordable and charming hostel with both dorm-style and private room options, with a shared bathroom, kitchen, and living room well stocked with books and games.
Address: 4 Mill St, Lion's Head, ON N0H 1W0, Canada
Phone: +1 519-793-3267
Airbnb: This part of Ontario is also known as “Cottage Country” because it is a very popular location for summer homes. Canadians seem to use the word “cottage” much like Americans use the term “cabin” and much of the coastline of the Bruce is peppered with charming lake houses. Because they are second homes, many of the cottages are listed on airbnb. However, they are often $200+ a night and are much less affordable than camping or the Fitz hostel, but work great for a group.
Camping: Lion's Head Beach Park campground is the closest to the main climbing area.
White Bluff campground is a bit more remote but offers stunning views. Check out the Lion's Head Tourism website for more information about campground locations and availability.
Food
If you are driving to the Bruce, Luscious Bakery in Sauble Beach is worth stopping at along the way! We also loved Outlaw Brewery in Southampton. (Ask for a tour of the restored hotel on the second floor.)
In Lion’s Head itself, food is limited. The best restaurant is the Lion’s Head Inn which offers pub-style food which may lead to high gravity days. Its best to bring food to cook yourselves, or grocery shop in town.
Gear
Don’t forget your gear! The closest place to get gear is 3 hours away at MEC (the Canadian equivalent of REI) in London, Ontario. Ouch.
Non-Climbing Activities
Hiking: The same bluffs and cliffs that make Lion’s head such a great climbing destination lend themselves to excellent hiking as well. One of the standouts is hiking the Bruce Trail to White Bluff. Two very popular areas to hike for visitors are the Grotto and Fathom Five, about a 30-minute drive from Lion’s Head in Tobermory at the tip of the Bruce Peninsula. These hikes get very busy over the summer, so plan ahead to visit them at less trafficked times - during the week or earlier in the day. Be prepared for fees to enter and there is a strange system where you have to reserve your parking spot for the grotto ahead of time. Check out the Parks Canada website for more information.
Kayaking: There are a couple outfitters in town who rent out kayaks to those who want to explore the crystal-clear waters. We’ve heard that there’s a shipwreck you can see from above.
Star-gazing: There are signs that boast that Lion’s Head offers “the best stars in southwestern Ontario”. I guess that means that night skies in Canada do get better (read- the aurora borealis) but these stars are DAMN GOOD and tremendously clear. There is very little light pollution in the Bruce Peninsula and locals are passionate about keeping it that way. In the summer months, the Dark Sky Society, a volunteer group, brings their telescope and knowledge to the Marina in town. If you are a city-dweller and have only seen maybe 4-5 stars in the past few months, just another reason to make the trip to Lion’s Head.
Rock Type(s): Limestone
Route Grading: Fair, but they don’t give anything away. Ranges from 5.6 to 5.14
Recommended Sport Sub-Sectors: Maneline Wall, Lady Slipper, an Latvian Ledge for moderates
Mountain Project is a good resource for Ontario climbing, although approach descriptions are vague. There is a free online guidebook to Lion’s Head available with more detail.
The best guidebook option is the Ontario Climbing: Lion’s Head chapter which can be purchased on the climbing guidebook app Rakkup for $9.99. This guide is particularly helpful for locating rappel points which can be tricky to locate on a first-time visit to the cliff.
The trail above the climbing is maintained by the Bruce Trail Conservancy and is free and open access. Driving from the town of Lion’s Head, turn right on Moore street and park at the trail lot or on the road pullout right by the trailhead. You do not need a 4WD vehicle. It is about a 1.5-mile easy hike to the main lookout. Climbs are accessed by walking along the cliff edge and locating rappel points.
The Stinger Gully (4th Class, fixed ropes in place) is the only way to access the base of the cliff without rappelling. It is good for accessing walls on the east side of the cliffband, such as Lady Slipper Area. The fastest approach to most crags is to rappel directly in from above, but if you haven't been to Lion's Head before, the rappel locations can be hard to find. Thus, Stinger Gully might be the easiest way to find climbs for the first time, since you can descend and then walk along the cliff band below to find climbs.
The gully is also the only way to walk out from the bottom of the wall, so if you aren't comfortable climbing out and belaying from above, you'd have to use it. It involves a few steep rock steps but there are solid handropes in place and its possible to rappel past the trickiest part, so it's not sketchy.
Bring 2 ropes 60m or longer - one for climbing and one for rappelling and leaving as a fixed line if it is necessary to ascend back out. This is key if you get stuck on the wrong route or are unable to finish the chosen climb.
Bringing ascenders or prusiks is a good idea for ascending a the fixed line.
Typical sport climbing rack - double length slings or other anchor material for building anchors at two bolt hanging belays, cordelette or webbing for building rappel anchors from trees near the cliff edge.
Many of the moderate ground-up lines, which offer a friendly introduction to Lion’s Head climbing, are located at the Latvian Ledge and Lady Slipper areas. The Maneline and American Bucks walls offer classic hanging belay climbs at moderate grades. Crags are sorted from West to East below.
Try using the search bar above to find desired grade (e.g. "5.10").
Approach: 30 min
Shade: Until 1:30PM
This bluff hosts several classic moderates that are visible (and easily photographed) from the main Lion’s Head lookout. The wall is accessed by a well-defined climber’s trail 100m before the main lookout. Climbs are reached by rappelling from trees near the cliff edge to hanging belays on the face below. The cliff is in the shade until 1pm. It can get quite warm in the direct afternoon sun. To avoid taking a factor 2 fall onto the belay, it is best to pre-clip the climbing rope and draw to the first bolt off the hanging belay. It is also possible to hang all the draws while rappelling down the line.
Recommended Climbs:
Queue de Lion (5.8) [Pictured below] - Among the easiest top-down lines at Lion’s Head, this 30m adventure involves a few exposed slab moves off the belay followed by steep and juggy climbing with epic views. Be sure to pre clip the first bolt (or first two) off the belay as the slab here is slick.
Maneline (5.10a) - Another area classic, Maneline ascends the plum line of the face. The crux comes straight off the hanging belay. It is also possible to rappel to the base and climb 5.8 face into the main climbing, making for a long 50m pitch. Expect 15-20 runouts in sections where the climbing is easier, though the tricky moves are well protected. A small rack of nuts or a few small cams can eliminate the runouts. Be sure to have a friend take photos from the lookout!
Approach: 45 minutes
Shade: Until 2PM
This popular crag offers a great range of grades, from 5.7 warmups to tenuous 5.12 slabs. The cliff here is in the shade until 2pm and is typically breezy so it is a good option on a warm day. Crag access is easiest from a tree rappel 300m past the main Lion’s Head lookout. Can also be accessed from the base after descending the Stinger Gully, which is about 200m past this rappel point.
Recommended Climbs:
Plastic Victory Jug (5.7) [Pictured below]
Anarchy in High Heels (5.10b)
Green Velvet (5.11b)
Approach: 50 minutes
Shade: Until 2PM
Another area with a good diversity of grades, this crag is very popular. The climbs here are best accessed by descending the Stinger Gully and walking East along the cliff (climber’s left) for about 200m. Most climbs start from an elevated ledge accessed by an easy scramble.
Recommended Climbs:
Skunks Do it in Tevas (5.9) - Great position on an arete and a technical top-out-excellent photos can be had from the neighboring ledge.
Lady Slipper (5.10a) - Technical and a bit devious, this awesome arete has holds just when you need them. Classic
The Honey Badger (5.11d)