Kalymnos Pt. 2 - Crag Reports
It took two full trips, but at this point I feel like we have acquired a pretty full picture of the climbing available on Kalymnos. We've still probably only been to a third of the ~60 climbing areas on the island. Our ATV allowed us access to every area on the island this time around, so we climbed in new spots on all sides of the island.
Below are some thoughts and recommendations for a few of the new crags we visited on our trip.
Symplegades
Popularity: Low/Medium
Ideal Grade Range: 5.10b-5.11a
Approach: Drive 5 min + hike 10 min
Recommendation: High
Thoughts: This area feels quite unique for Kalymnos. The main wall has great vertical face climbs that look sort of blank but have amazing little pockets, pinches, and edges if you can find them. There aren't an enormous amount of routes, but it makes for a great full day with the way the shade moves from one face to the other. It is a bit of a wind tunnel so perhaps save it for a calm day.
Ghost Kitchen
Popularity: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11a-5.12c
Approach: Drive 15 min + hike 20 min (steep)
Recommendation: High
Thoughts: The main wall of Ghost Kitchen is very distinct with steep climbs and tons of wild vertical tufas. Nearly all of them are excellent most are exhausting, especially if you aren't used to this style. To the left there are some good vertical climbs that are in the 5.10 range, though that area appears to gather some crowds. Down to the right is a section of long slab routes (80m rope required) which seem like good options for afternoon when the sun starts to hit the main wall.
Arhi
Popularity: High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.13+
Approach: Drive 15 min + hike 8 min
Recommendation: Low
Thoughts: Perhaps it was just the particular day we were there, but this crag was crowded to the point where we felt cramped and that our options were limited. It's likely the crowds are not as much of a problem on the non-main wall. Arhi also gets sunny sooner than other walls so you'll need to get out there early in the warmer months.
Arginonta Valley
Popularity: Medium/High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.9-5.10 (middle, right) 5.11 (left)
Approach: Drive 15 min + hike 10 min
Recommendation: High
Thoughts: A great spot for a large selection of high-quality routes in the low 5.10's. While this seems like a popular spot for mid-sized groups, there are a ton routes of similar difficulty packed into the middle and right walls. Additionally, for some harder steep routes you can walk another two minutes to the left cave. The combination of quality routes, easy approach, and all-afternoon shade make this highly recommended.
Secret Garden
Popularity: Medium/High
Ideal Grade Range: 5.11c-5.12
Approach: Drive 25 min + hike 10 min
Recommendation: Medium
Thoughts: This crag is all about the ~15 steep tufa routes in the middle of the wall. I think this section most closely resembles the Ghost Kitchen main wall, but it gets shade for most of the day. The drawbacks are a relatively long and sunny approach, lack of good easier routes, and relative crowdedness for the approach length. The tiny town of Palionnisos is a nice spot to swing by afterwards for swimming and food - we thought Taverna Kalidonis was quite good.
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